Corbetts Archives – James Stone

Rum

16th July 2022 by James Stone Leave a Comment

Over the years I have sadly neglected most of Scotland’s west coast islands. Because there are Munros there, I have been to Skye and to Mull. I had also been to Gigha. So in the summer of 2021, I decided to start to put that right and planned a trip to Rum. Rum has a central ridge of gabbro mini-mountains, much like Skye. Those hills are called the Rum Cuillin, the highest of which is Askival.

Away from that ridge, Rum also has two Marilyns. So with some flexibility in work arrangements, I awaited a promising weather forecast and hoped that, when it came, I would be able to find space on the ferry across to the island and accommodation on it. That forecast came at the end of August.

It is a long drive from home to Mallaig, the port from which the ferry to Rum sails and so I arranged to spend a couple of days climbing other peaks en route. Fortunately there was space on the ferry and I arranged a spot at Rum’s campsite.

I was blessed with great weather for all three days that I was sailing to/from the island and I was on the island itself.

The crossing was smooth.

***The island of Rum across a flat sea***

The ferry first called at the island of Eigg with its striking inselberg, An Sgurr.

Rum was, at one time, in private ownership. One owner had Kinloch Castle built. This is well seen as you enter Loch Scresort. Its stone was imported, so the building looks a little out of place. It is a Victorian house finished around 1900 as a residence of a Lancastrian textile mogul. But it fell into neglect and now has an air of decay, though it has been used sporadically since. And tours of it are available. The island of Rum is now owned by NatureScot and most of it comprises a National Nature Reserve.

After the ferry docked I walked the half mile or so to the camp site, pitched my tent and generally sorted myself out for three days in the Rum hills. It was around the middle of the day. So I had planned to climb on of the two Marilyns not on the ridge that same day. Daylight hours would not be problem in Scotland at that time of year.

Mullach Mhor

The first of these Marilyns was Mullach Mor. It was a surprisingly rugged little hill, but with fantastic views of the southern end of the Skye Cuillin, Bla Bheinn and the Broadford hills on Skye, as well as the Rum Cuillin and the distant mainland.

So just before 2pm I set out for a look at what Mullach Mor had to offer. This is the lowest of the island’s Marilyns but with a decent prominence relative to its height.

I followed the track first past Kinloch Castle. The track leads on to a crossroads where I went straight on over the bridge and then immediately turned left onto a track which is shown on the 1:50000 OS map (but not the 1:25000). This is the designated North Side Trail and occasionally waymarked with a yellow eagle sign.

The path then generally contours along the side of the hill. Not much height was gained as I passed through scattered woodland. Eventually another marker post is reached. This directs you along a path which goes downhill at this point. However, the correct route is straight on. There is an old path which is marked on the OS maps but which, in summer, may be overgrown. Follow this. In a matter of metres the path crosses a small bridge and carries on contouring the slope. Even after dry weather the path was quite wet and sometimes difficult to follow as I suspect that it is not much used.

The path continues for another kilometre before it reaches the edge of the woodland (and then continues to join up with the main track to Kilmory and Harris in a further 1.5kms). Once at the edge of the woodland it is then a question of finding the best way up. There are no more paths. The summer long grass made it difficult to see good foot placements on the rough ground. The way gets slightly better with elevation gain.

There is 200m of ascent with some small crags to navigate around. After some effort the gradient eventually eases and the summit trig comes into view. Now is the time to appreciate the effort and to look at the 360 degree views described above. It had only taken just over 90 minutes from the tent but it felt longer. So I spent over 30 minutes on top taking in those views before returning roughly the same way to the path at the edge of the woodland.

***Hallival and Askival from Mullach Mhor***

I reversed my route to the marker where I had ignored the downhill path. This time, to vary the route back, I followed it. It lead very pleasantly downhill towards the river before turning east and following the river to a convenient footbridge (not marked on the OS maps) which in turn led back to the main track back to Kinloch.

The Rum Cuillin

The traverse of the Rum Cuillin in a single day is one of Scotland’s classic mountain days. There are a couple of ways that it can be tackled. First a rough coastal path can be taken from Kinloch towards the bothy at Dibidil at the north west of the island. From there an ascent of Sgurr nan Gillean is made and the ridge can be followed back north to Hallival and a descent made to Kinloch from there. (Of course, this can all be done in reverse as well).

The second option is the one that I took. From Kinloch campsite I went via the Castle and followed a good track to Coire Dubh.

I made an early start being away by 6.30am. Sunrise with the clouds made for an orange glow.

The track took me up to the col between Barkeval and Hallival. Hallival rears up to the left. The hills here mainly have Norse derivations. Hallival is hill of the hall, presumably because of its shape.

Indeed the whole ridge is visible, twisting one way and then another.

Hallival presents a series of rock bands as its steep slopes are tackled. One required a bit of tricky scrambling. However, after then the summit ridge was gained.

***Hallival summit ridge with Skye behind***

Askival, Ainshval and Trollabhal from Hallival on Rum — Askival, Ainshval and Trollabhal

A haze inversion persisted. A cruise ship floated through the channel between Rum and Skye.

A cruise ship floats through the channel between Rum and Skye

I managed this zoom shot of Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Dearg on the Isle of Skye.

Sgurr Alasdair and Sgurr Dearg from Hellival on Rum

And this hazy shot of the Knoydart hills.

I continued.

The drop off Hallival is also steep, albeit a bit less craggy. I had seen animal droppings on the summit ridge and wondered how any animal might get up there. Goats is the answer. The deer would never make it. I saw this one-horned specimen on the way down.

I was soon at the col before Askival. The way is straightforward until this barrier on the ridge is met.

Fortunately a narrow path bypasses this obstacle to the left. You then pick your spot to ascend steep rocky ground to meet the ridge above the barrier.

By the time I had reached Askival’s summit, some fair weather cloud was swirling about. Askival is the island’s highest point at 812m. Not massive, but you do climb every metre of its height and more. Askival is hill of the ash tree.

Here looking back at Hellival.

And on to Trollabhal (right) and Ainshval with the cloud. Those two would be my next hills.

Time to go. I started the descent. Again it was steep and I drifted too far to my left. This resulted in a slightly awkward traverse back to the main ridge line. But I eventually reached the lowest col of the day – the Bealach an Oir. I just had goats and deer for company.

I contemplated another steep ascent up to Trollabhal. This is hill of the trolls, so called because the Norse inhabitants mistook the noise of burrowing Manx Shearwaters for the noise of trolls. I was there outside of the breeding season, so did not see any Shearwaters, but about a third of the world’s population nest here each year.

Some miss out this peak because it is not a Corbett. That is a shame. It has an interesting and awkward double top. Of course, the (slightly) higher one is the furthest away when approaching from this col.

So I gritted my teeth and ground my way up the slopes ahead. After an initial rise, the ridge went up in a couple of rises before the final sharp rise. There was a bit of a scramble to the first top and then a more exposed way over to the higher top.

As was the case for all of the tops, the view was wonderful. Here is a panorama showing (left to right) Hallival, Askival, the lower top and the island of Eigg.

I stopped here for a while, in the centre of the Rum Cuillin. It was around 1pm. So I had been going over 6 hours. After a rest and some food/drink, I scrambled back to the lower top. From here it was possible to break south down broken slopes and reach the next col – the Bealach an Fhuarain. Here is the photo of the route down.

It was then to my final peak of the day, Ainshval – rocky ridge. A direct approach is not possible. A rising traverse is taken to the right until a run of scree is met. From there a loose path zig-zags up to the ridge above the crag that blocked the way from the col. Once on the ridge it was necessary to take the slopes to the left of the crest where another loose path took me up to a plateau where the summit cairn was located.

I was now at the furthest point from Kinloch; it was 14:40. A pair of deer objected to my presence and grunted their disapproval.

I ignored them! Here were the views.

***Hallival and Askival from Ainshval***

And the cruise ships were still out in force taking advantage of the calm conditions.

The ridge continues on to Sgurr nan Gillean, a hill without a Norse derivation meaning hill of the young men. But the ridge loses its ruggedness here. I decided not to go out to that top.

It was time to return. In going back the same way, I did not have to re-ascend any of the peaks. I could traverse beneath them to reach each of the three cols that I had already crossed. This time I would just pop over them and drop into the corrie on the other side.

***View from Bealach an Fhuarain to Bealach on Oir***

By the time I reached Atlantic Corrie beyond Bealach an Oir, I was quite tired, and parched. The day had been warm and the sun relentless. There was a bit of a drop into this corrie and then an ankle turning traverse of almost 2kms to the next col. From there, the path back down to Kinloch beside the Allt Slugan a‘Choillich could be seen. I dropped steeply to it.

It was then a (pleasant) plod down to the village. Here there is a small shop and I bought four litres of fluid and immediately downed two of them. I do not think that I had become so dehydrated since my visit to several of Australia’s 2000m mountains.

Orval

The final day involved a climb of Orval, a return to pack up the tent and a ferry back to the mainland.

The summit of Orval has got to be one of the best viewpoints in the UK. The panorama spreads from the Outer Isles to Canna, round to the Skye ridge between Banachdich to Garsbheinn, then to Blaven and the Broadford hills, Sgritheall, Ladhar Bheinn, Sgurr na Ciche, distant Ben More on Mull, the Rum Cuillin and many more.

Keep it for a good day.

I walked from Kinloch campsite past the Castle again and followed the road to Kilmory and Harris. I took the branch towards Harris after 3 kilometres or so. In another kilometre and a half, just before Malcolm’s Bridge there is an old grass path which I took.

This path can be wet, but rocks and wooden walkways liberally sprinkle its passage so that you can avoid the worst of the wetness.

Just beyond Malcolm’s Bridge there is a vehicle track which might lead a little more directly to the objective, which is Bealach a’Bhraigh Bhig.

From afar it looks like a band of rocks will prevent access to the upper parts of Orval. In fact it is straightforward where a narrow drainage line / path takes you above the rocks.

**The seemingly impenetrable rock band**

From here, the upper part of the hill is largely trackless. On the way up I followed the line of cliffs overlooking Canna. A group of fine looking deer ran away at my presence. There is a further 200m of ascent from the pass but the trig point and slightly higher cairn soon come. One can then admire the panorama described above.

The walk can be continued to Àrd Nev with a descent south to the road to Harris. But I had a ferry to catch. So I returned by the outward route just taking a slightly more direct line back to the pass and using part of the upper reaches of the vehicle track before reverting to the grass path.

Fionchra would also be easily climbed from the pass.

It was then back to the camp site and a walk back to the ferry terminal for the sailing back to Mallaig. It had been a wonderful three days with the weather forecast being spot on. I was also struck by the fact that in all three days, despite the good weather and the holiday period, I had seen no-one else on the hills.

Southern Corbetts – Corserine and The Rhinns of Kell

8th October 2017 by James Stone 2 Comments

The previous day I had climbed Cairnsmore of Carsphairn. Today I was going to walk the Rhinns of Kells ridge, the highest point being a hill called Corserine at 814m (26750ft). The forecast was good and, for March, the weather was relatively warm, albeit with a sharp breeze.

“Rhinn” is a word from old Irish meaning foothill, a landmark or a peninsula. “Kells” is refuge or niche. The name referring overall to Irish settlement in the area. The ridge runs in a roughly north-south direction for roughly 16km from Black Craig in the north to Meilke Millyea in the south. I was not going to tackle the northern section from Carlin’s Cairn to the north. But rather hit the ridge at Corserine and then make my way south.

The normal start point for this walk (and the one that I would use) is from Forrest Lodge on the east side of the ridge. Forrest Lodge is at the centre of a forestry estate owned by the Norwegian Fred Olsen Group.

The estate provides a car park 6km west of the A713 up a twisty no through road. There are warning signs there against overnight parking at the car park.

From the car park the approach to Corserine follows forestry roads at first and picking the right one to start on is key. Once identified it is straightforward with some helpful indicator signs. There is a map on the board at the car park and the initial road is called Birgir Natvig Road followed by Robert Watson Road. On the return to the forest one follows Professor Hans Heiberg Road. I understand that these individuals are all scientists.

After an initial forested section a felled area is passed through and a house, Fore Bush, is on the right. The road swings to the right and back up into forest. After a couple of turns, the path, now rougher and wetter, meets the edge of the forest by Folk Burn and a stile.

Once out of the forest a faint path then leads over grassy ground, trending to the right towards the north east ridge of Corserine.

Here views opened up towards Cairnsmore of Cairsphairn.

To the left are some incipient cliffs.

The path continues up the ridge and eventually to a large cairn (named as Hennessy’s Shelter on the 1:25,000 OS). This is on the edge of the summit plateau around the 800m mark at the Scar of the Folk.

Hennessey's Cairn on Corserine — **Hennessy’s Cairn on Corserine**

It was then an easy and pleasant walk across to the summit trig. There were great views to the right towards Carlin’s Cairn. Here the view expands to hills to the west, including Merrick, the highest hill in Galloway. There are also great distant views to the Northern Pennines, the Lake District, the Isle of Man, Ailsa Crag (just), Arran, the Southern Highlands and the rest of the Southern Uplands.

Here is Arran to the north-west.

These were the views to the south, including the Lake District in England across the Solway Firth.

The route continued on down the south ridge of Corserine and over the subsidiary summits of Millfire and Milldown. At the next col, Jet and I stopped. Whilst I had something to eat, Jet took advantage of the lochans there – the Lochans of Auchniebut.

A 100m ascent took us up to the trig point and cairn at the southern end of Meikle Millyea. From here, the view back to Corserine is like this.

The view out to Cairnsmore of Cairsphairn is out over a vast expanse of air.

View to Cairnsmore of Cairsphairn from Mickle Millyea on the Rhinns of Kell

The true summit of Meikle Millyea is not at the trig point and cairn but actually around 350m to the south. So I wandered across the rough ground to that point. The views to Merrick were better here.

And to the snow covered Lake District.

I returned to the trig/cairn and followed the north-east ridge down to Meikle Lump following a broken wall and over wetter ground to the edge of the forest and, in a while, Professor Hans Heiberg Road.

So this walk saw me complete the seven southern Scottish Corbetts. Only about 170 other Corbetts to do now!

Southern Corbetts – Cairnsmore of Carsphairn

22nd September 2017 by James Stone Leave a Comment

In March I made a quick visit north of the border with Jet. The aim was to climb the two remaining southern Corbetts that I had not done – Cairnsmore of Carsphairn and Corserine. By way of reminder, a Corbett is a hill in Scotland between 2,500ft and 3,000ft with a prominence of at least 500ft. There are 222 of them with seven being south of Glasgow/Edinburgh.

So for me the two I had an eye on did not involve a long drive up to the Highlands. That said, it is still a 4 hour drive into the depths of Galloway. Over the years I have tended to drive by this part of Scotland on my way to the rugged Highlands.

So one Saturday morning I left home early. Leaving the motorway at Gretna I bypassed Dumfries to New Galloway and then turned north. Passing through the intriguingly named settlement of St John’s Town of Dalry, I reached the village of Carsphairn and (just beyond there) the Green Well of Scotland.

Dalry (as it is usually called) sits on an old pilgrimage route. The Green Well looks to be just a small pond. But it is a site associated with legends of hidden gold.

Cairnsmore of Carsphairn was today’s objective. It is 797m (2,615ft) high but has a significant prominence in part because it is located away from any higher ground.

I found parking on the west side of the road just before the bridge that carries the A713 over The Water of Deugh. It was also conveniently opposite the start of a track that we would be following. It was now 10.30am and I had a bit to eat before starting off.

Jet and I crossed the road, joined the track, passed a cottage and outbuildings and followed The Water of Deugh. The track was of motorable hardcore for a while before it reached a gate and a field passing a large cattle shed. Here the track began to deteriorate as it had been churned up by vehicles and cattle. Indeed there were quite a few cattle ahead and I was concerned that Jet would be spooked. I sent him to the left around the edge of the field near the river away from the cattle. Fortunately the cattle were not really interested so I could concentrate on not getting too muddy.

The track then improved again at another stream. The ground began to rise and there were a few more cattle. Here is a view back the way we had come and towards the Rhinns of Kell, the line of hills we would tackle the following day.

I heard the noise of a motor behind us and soon we were overtaken by three men in an ATV. Mutual hellos were said. We would see them again later.

We climbed a further 100m in elevation at an easy gradient as the track skirted Willieanna and Dunool. Just before the track swung to the left to meet a wall we struck out straight ahead to meet up with the same wall where it crossed a small stream with a convenient bridge. It was a little boggy here. The way ahead comprised uniform grassy slopes with the wall being the only major feature and a few snow patches high up.

From this point it was just a steady plod up the easy ground. The wind picked up a little but it wasn’t at all bothersome. Soon we were approaching the top, just 90 minutes after setting out.

Here we met our men from the ATV again. There is a small communications mast on the summit and they were working on it. We had heard the ATV puttering along a ridge up to our right as we followed the wall up.

It was too early for lunch. So I looked around at the view. Distant views were surprisingly hazy. You are supposed to be able to see the Isle of Man, Ben Nevis and the North Sea from the summit. However, although it was sunny, there was too much atmospheric haze to see them on this occasion. The Lakeland hills to the south were still carrying a surprising amount of snow.

The Isle of Arran showed to the north-west.

Merrick (the highest hill in the vicinity) and Shalloch on Minnoch stood to the west.

Jet (as is his wont) found a pool to paddle in with, behind, the blots on the landscape – a large windfarm of the sort prevalent in the Southern Uplands.

We sat down in the cairn for lunch. It was now nearly 1pm and warm in the sun sheltered from the breeze. The workmen continued with their labours. It felt a little odd me being there eating my food looking at the views and them and their machinery working away.

Well it became time to leave. I varied the descent by following the ridge that the ATV had come up. Again we followed a wall over Black Shoulder – where I passed a couple of other walkers and the ATV returning to collect the workmen – Dunool and Willieanna before trending to the right to pick up the track.

The cows were a lot more spread out so there was a bit of stress managing Jet through them but once through them, we went easily back to the car.

From there I drove a few miles to check out the start point for tomorrow’s walk along the Rhinns of Kell before finding a spot to hole up for the night. It was a nice easy walk in expansive country. With an early start it would be possible to climb this hill and tomorrow’s in a single day.

Loch Leven Corbetts – 26th November 2016

10th September 2017 by James Stone Leave a Comment

At breakfast the day after my and Caroline’s great trip to Leum Uilleam, Caroline told me that she had hurt her back and did not feel able to join me. So I hurriedly adjusted my plans for the day. Either side of Loch Leven stand two somewhat neglected Corbetts – Garbh Bheinn and Mam nan Gualainn. They are dominated by the Glen Coe hills to the south and the Mamores to the north. I had not done either, they would both provide decent climbs and they were not that far from Fort William. In fact, there would be 1700m of ascent between the two – useful preparation for Antarctica.

I chose Garbh Bheinn, to the south of Loch Leven, as my first target. There is some space for car parking by the bridge over the Allt Gleann a’Chaolais. A path starts, rather unpromisingly at first, almost opposite. It was a bit wet but improved as height was gained and the long west ridge of Garbh Bheinn followed.

The path gained height quickly on to Torran nan Crann, levelled out and then rose sharply again up the slopes of Stob Coire Sgoilte. There were patches of snow here and the path was covered most of the way up. So I ended up climbing slippery grass peppered with rocks.

It was another beautiful sunny say. I was out of the wind most of the way up, but at the top the breeze was brisk and I had to put on another layer when I arrived.

There are two cairns on the top. The eastern (lower) one has views out over the Blackwater Reservoir, Rannoch Moor and distant Schiehallion.

The western (higher) one looks down to the lower reaches of Loch Leven.

To the north ranged the Mamores.

With Ben Nevis looming over them.

To the south the jaggedy Aonach Eagach ridge loomed nearby with the other Glen Coe hills behind. It is possible to make a route on to this crinkly crest from Garbh Bheinn.

But perhaps the best view is just below the summit, looking west to the Ballachulish narrows and the Pap of Glencoe.

The low light was just wonderful and the air had that clarity that only colder months can bring. Down below on Loch Leven a small boat was gliding towards Kinlochleven leaving a wake in its trail. 1hr 50minutes up and 1hr 20minutes down. Towards the bottom I met a couple, the only people I would meet on the hills this day. Back at the car I ate some food to refuel before driving around the head of the loch at Kinlochleven and along its north side to just short of Callart House.

Again, there is parking by the side of the road. Time was running short at this time of short daylight hours. I was in two minds as to whether to continue up Mam nan Gualainn. This Corbett forms a 6km long ridge with a lower top, Bainn na Cailleach, almost 3km to the east. A decent traverse can be made from Kinlochleven, first using the West Highland Way, and descending the way that I was to go up.

There is a path which ends up going around the back of the Corbett that I followed, first through some woodland and then soon up into the open hillside. The path is occasionally wet and coincided with ATV trails. As I climbed I had a good view of Garbh Bheinn that looked a bit like an appendage to the Aonach Eagach ridge.

Just before the path crested the col ahead I veered to the right and climbed 200m of steep grassy slopes. The gradient eased, there was a fence and a bit of a path. I went through a gate in the fence. The top was in view and I was soon there.

Again the views, and the light, were outstanding. The Mamores stood to the north.

And the sun was beginning to set over the Ballachulish Munros.

I waited as long as I dared watching the sun go down. The Mamores glowed.

I hurried down. The sun disappeared but the clouds went red; the hills were silhouetted.

It was dark by the time I was back at the car but I had not needed my head torch. There was enough light in the sky to walk by. And I did not feel too bad after my 1700m of climbing. Plus an inversion and Brocken Spectres one day and amazing light and atmospheric clarity the other. What a weekend.

Leaping above the clouds – Leum Uilleum

2nd September 2017 by James Stone Leave a Comment

This walk is from November 2016. I went north to Spean Bridge to stay with Caroline. The forecast was looking OK, but not brilliant – cloudy but low wind speeds. I was wanting to get out again in preparation for my trip to Antarctica. We agreed that we would go for Leum Uilleum, a Corbett above Corrour station on the West Highland line.

Were it not for the railway, this would be a very inaccessible hill. From the station, the climb is straightforward. The main challenge can sometimes be in completing walks in time to catch a train back to “civilisation”.

Leum Uilleum is Gaelic for William’s Leap. Unfortunately, I do not know who William is nor why or from where he leapt.

We walked from Caroline’s house to Spean Bridge station to catch the first train south and took the 35 minute journey to Corrour. The last time I had been here had been in May with Ciaran when we had tackled Beinn na Lap.

Early snows had arrived. The sun was just rising as we reached the station.

Leum Uilleum was just across the way.

Well the forecast seemed to be wrong!

The ground between the slopes is one large bog. But today they were largely frozen. There is a path from the station that weaves its way over towards Leum Uilleum’s northern arm. This is shown on the OS map. There is also a vehicle track that runs up the northern arm coming in from further north, though we would not see this today because of the snow.

The views back towards the even more remote Ben Alder beyond Loch Ossian were stunning.

We reached the subsidiary top of Beinn a’Bhric from where there was a view along Loch Trieg.

But a bank of cloud came in. Perhaps the forecast was going to be right after all. It made for some atmospheric scenes.

And the phenomenon of Brocken Spectres.

Brocken Spectre

It is a little over a kilometre between Beinn a’Bhric and Leum Uilleum. The cloud was not thick. Blue patches regularly appeared overhead. As we approached the summit, we emerged from the cloud.

From then on it was just one of those days that you dream of. The views were just stunning. To the west an inversion was forming. To the east stood iconic mountains such as Schiehallion.

And, again, Ben Alder.

But it was to the west that the eye was constantly drawn, best seen in this panorama showing the Mamores, Ben Nevis, the Aonachs, the Grey Corries and the Easains.

Ben Nevis panorama

Here is a closer view of Ben Nevis and the Aonachs.

Ben Nevis and the Aonachs float above the clouds

And Buachaille Etive Mor.

And Bidean nam Bian, one of my favourite mountains.

The forecast was correct with its anticipated low wind speeds. So it was quite comfortable staying on the top as we ate, drank and continued watching the cloudscape and the peaks above it. On a couple of occasions thicker cloud came by and we were swamped by blue-white but it never lasted long.

Eventually, it was necessary to go. We were not under any particular time pressure, the train was not due for a while. But our bodies were becoming chilled.

The Spectres were still out!

And then we plunged back down into the cloud along the north east ridge. There was a path here too, not marked on the map that took us back across the bogs to the station.

During the summer months there is a café/restaurant at the station house. So unfortunately it was not available to us this day. But, as we were sitting in the waiting shelter on the platform, the warden of the Loch Ossian youth hostel came by. She offered us a cup of tea back at the hostel. We had the time to accept even though it involved a twenty minute each way walk down to the hostel. I had never been in before and the cup of tea was very welcome!