Archives for January 2020

Congratulations to the 2019/2020 Mount Sidley team who made the summit at around 22.30 UTC on 18th January.

I do not have much in the way of detail at the moment so I will update this blog as and when I do. But from what I can tell the team had good conditions. So the long wait at base camp was worth it.

The team arrived back at top camp at around 01.30 UTC on 19th January. So it was a fairly speedy descent after the almost 8 hours it took to climb the mountain.

Update – 20th January 2020

Andrew Hughes reports “We are all back safely in Union Glacier. What an unbelievable mountain experience Sidley presents all willing to venture to it and explore its heights. ”

The weather they experienced looked fabulous.

It was around a 10 hour 30 minutes round trip on summit day.

I will post a full list of summiters and update my list of Volcanic Seven Summit completers in the course of the next week or so.

In the meantime here is a picture of this season’s team and the flight crew.

For the previous blog on this trip see here.

After 4½ days by the Basler at base camp, the team for the Mount Sidley 2019/2020 season has finally been able to commence its ascent of the mountain.

I have been in touch with Andrew Hughes and he tells me that:

“At long last the weather gods graced us with minimal winds, mostly blue skies, and sunshine after we woke this morning in a thick impenetrable fog.

We left around 3 pm and completed four legs of an hour a piece till we came upon a level perch to place our high camp. Everyone now has delighted in their dehydrated dinners and is tucking in for the night as we have a mammoth day tomorrow to reach the summit with around 4,600 feet of elevation to gain.”

He has kindly sent me this photo of one of the rope teams with the Basler in the background set against the vastness of the Antarctic ice sheet.

The top camp being used by this team is in a different location from that used by the previous two teams who started their climbs from the ice sheet. But with the broad open slopes, there is no standard route up the mountain. Therefore there is scope for exploring different approaches to the climb.

1,402m or 4,600ft of climbing to the summit will make it quite a long summit day. Let’s hope that the weather holds good.

If I receive any further photos from this first part of the climb I will post them here.

You can find the previous blog on this trip here.

The Mount Sidley 2019/2020 season has now started in earnest. David Roskelley’s website reports that the team has flown from Union Glacier to the mountain. They arrived at around 10.30pm UTC on Monday.

As anticipated they have landed on the ice sheet. This is the fourth ALE trip to do this. The remaining ones have landed in the crater.

Team member, Andrew Hughes, was kind enough to send me this photo with the slopes of Mount Sidley rising in the background.

The scene will look something like this with the trusty Basler in the background. Looking at the ice disappearing into the distant horizon one can appreciate the enormity of the Antarctic ice sheet.

As the weather forecast now looks promising, the ascent is likely to begin later today. This starts with a walk across the ice to the base of the mountain. This first section is further than it might seem from the picture above.

After then the slopes steepen at a fairly uniform angle. In around 5 hours the team will reach a shallow col where high camp can be set up. With the weather set fair, the team is likely to take everything they need for the climb. Last year the group made a carry to high camp and then returned to base camp the same day.

If the team is feeling well and the weather remains good, then one might anticipate a summit attempt the following day. This was the programme that my group used, though we were turned back by bad weather and we had to try again three days after leaving base camp.

In the meantime, the flight crew will remain with the aircraft. There will be regular radio contact between the team and the crew during the climb. Good luck to all!

Update 15th January 2020

Best laid plans etc. I have been in touch with the team at Sidley base camp. Although the weather at base camp is fine, it does not look so good up the mountain. So the team have not yet left base camp.

Andrew Hughes has sent me this photo of the mountain taken shortly after their arrival with what looks to be a partial halo where the sun’s light is refracted by crystals in the atmosphere.

Previous blogs on this season’s trip are here, here and here.

Weather issues have held up the team from making their way to the mountain. So the Mount Sidley 2019/2020 season has yet to begin in earnest.

First the three members of the team who were already in Antarctica tackling Mount Vinson were delayed in returning to Union Glacier by foggy conditions at Mount Vinson base camp. Now it looks as though the conditions at Mount Sidley are not ideal.

ALE will not fly to Mount Sidley unless there is a high degree of certainty that it will be safe to land when the plane gets there. Unlike at Union Glacier there are no groomed runways. The pilots land where they judge it to be safe. This could be in the crater or on the ice sheet.

ALE have installed fairly sophisticated infrastructure to enable good quality weather forecasting in the Union Glacier and Mount Vinson areas. But this does not exist at Mount Sidley. Therefore the professional weather forecasters that ALE engage have to rely on generic weather models to assess what conditions are likely to be at Mount Sidley.

This year I am anticipating that the Basler will be used as transport given the size of the party. The Basler cannot land in the crater because it is not a short take-off and landing aircraft like the Twin Otters. So it will land on the ice sheet.

Whilst the team waits, they will either socialise in the large mess tent or ALE will organise trips outside the camp.

Yesterday the five non-Vinson team members climbed Charles Peak. This lies about 8km (5 miles) across Union Glacier and provides a good leg stretch. It is a straightforward climb with little objective danger. It also gives the guides an opportunity to assess the client team.

Although there are no significant technical difficulties in climbing this peak, I can claim it to be the only place where I have fallen into a crevasse. Well that may be a bit of an exaggeration. My right leg went in up to its knee. Even if I had gone in much further, the crack was narrow enough that my body would not have squeezed through.

Wikipedia quotes a height of 990m (3,250ft) for Charles Peak, though my GPS measured 1,040m as its elevation. It is a rocky summit that thrusts out of the ice. Its most significant feature is its ice scoop. This is an icy valley that has been scoured by the action of the wind.

The image above shows Dave Roskelley’s Garmin track from the camp to Charles Peak and back again. The shadow of Mount Rossman towards the bottom right of the image casts itself over the camp. Charles Peak is top centre. The wind scoop is clearly visible to the right of Charles Peak.

On my trip we started from the right hand end of the scoop and followed it down to the left, around the loop to the bottom left of the peak and then back up and right. The final section of the climb was up rock so we took our crampons off for this section.

From the summit you can appreciate the awesome nature of Antarctica. Here are some photos from my trip.

If the weather forecast for Mount Sidley that I am looking at is correct, it looks as though the weather will improve there on Tuesday. Perhaps we will hear more then.

Dave Roskelley is running his own blog and you can find it here.

Update – 13th January 2020

According to Dave Roskelley’s blog the three further Sidley team members have been named. So the whole team is:

• David Roskelley (USA)*
• Vaughan de la Harpe (South Africa)*
• Andrew Hughes (USA)
• Arthur Marsden (South Africa)*
• Oleg Mezentsev (Russia)*
• Donald O’Connor (South Africa)
• Roxanne Vogel (USA)
• Rob Williams (South Africa)
• Andy Chapman (UK – ALE guide)
• Josh Hoeschen (USA – ALE guide)

Those marked with an asterisk will finish the V7S with the Sidley climb. They will also finish the Seven Summits/V7S combo.

The blog also indicates that they hope to fly to Mount Sidley later today.

[Note blog further updated on 14th January 2020 to add the names of the two ALE guides.]

Previous blogs on the Mount Sidley 2019/2020 season’s trip are here and here.

The next blog is here.