James Stone (Clach Liath)

Mountaineering and the Volcanic Seven Summits

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Archives for February 2018

Mount Sidley ascents – update

25th February 2018 by James Stone Leave a Comment

Mount Sidley from the air
Mount Sidley from the air
Mount Sidley from the air

 

[An update to the list below can be found here.]

There is a dearth of information on the web on Mount Sidley ascents.  So I have continued to undertake further research since my return from Antarctica and over the past year, and put together what I believe to be a definitive list of all ascensionists.  This is set out below.  The one qualification that I would make is that scientists funded by US, UK and NZ were prohibited from undertaking mountaineering activities unless necessary for the scientific purpose for which they were there.  So it is possible that one or two unrecorded ascents could have been made, but I think that this is unlikely.  It is also possible that some of the scientists listed here who report that they have “climbed” the mountain may only have been on the upper reaches.

In assembling this list I am grateful for the assistance of Dr Kurt Panter, Dr Nelia Dunbar, Christoph Hoebenreich (who was a guide on my expedition in 2017) and, through him, Damien Gildea and Mike Roberts and of Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE).

As ever I am happy to correct any errors or omissions and if there is any other information on trips to this remote area beyond that in my previous blog, I would be pleased to receive it.

In summary, the mountain has received 46 ascents from 44 different people.  All expeditions to the mountain have been facilitated either by national scientific expeditions or by ALE.

 

MOUNT SIDLEY SUMMIT LIST

(as at 25th February 2018)

Date Name Group Nationality
1. 01/11/1990 Bill Atkinson Panter Group NZ
2. 01/12/1990 Bill McIntosh Panter Group USA
3. 01/12/1990 Kurt Panter Panter Group USA
01/21/1994 Bill McIntosh (second ascent) Dunbar/ McIntosh USA
4. 01/21/1994 Nelia Dunbar Dunbar/ McIntosh USA
5. 01/21/1994 Thom Wilch Dunbar/ McIntosh USA
6. 01/21/1994 Tony Teeling Dunbar/ McIntosh NZ
7. 01/23/2011 Scott Woolums ALE #1 USA
8. 01/23/2011 Alex Abramov ALE #1 Russia
9. 01/23/2011 Crina “Coco” Popescu ALE #1 Romania
10. 01/23/2011 Mario Trimeri ALE #1 Italy
11. 01/01/2012 Mike Roberts Roberts Group NZ
12. 01/01/2012 Jennifer Erxleben Roberts Group USA
13. 01/01/2012 John Paul O’Donnell Roberts Group Ireland
14. 01/01/2012 Andrew Lloyd Roberts Group USA
15. 01/18/2013 David Hamilton ALE #2 UK (Scotland)
16. 01/18/2013 Olga Rumyantseva ALE #2 Russia
17. 01/18/2013 Vyacheslav Adrov ALE #2 Russia
18. 01/18/2013 Vitaly Simonovich ALE #2 Russia
19. 01/18/2013 Paul Nicholson ALE #2 Canada
20. 12/28/2013 Dylan Taylor ALE #3 USA
21. 12/28/2013 Andre Filkov ALE #3 Russia
22. 12/28/2013 Ilya Bykov ALE #3 Russia
23. 12/28/2013 Sophie Cairns ALE #3 UK (England)/ Hong Kong
24. 12/28/2013 Liana Chabdarova ALE #3 Russia
25. 01/17/2014 Rob Smith ALE #4 UK (Northern Ireland)
26. 01/17/2014 Jean Frederik Paulsen ALE #4 Sweden
27. 01/17/2014 Francois Michel Bernard ALE #4 France
28. 01/17/2014 Christian de Marliave ALE #4 France
29. 01/17/2014 John Dodelande ALE #4 France
30. 01/17/2014 Joachim Marte ALE #4 Austria
31. 01/17/2014 Philipp Lehner ALE #4 Austria
32. 01/17/2014 Alexander Svaetichin ALE #4 Sweden
01/17/2014 Scott Woolums (second ascent) ALE #4 USA
33. 01/14/2017 Tre-C Dumais ALE #5 USA
34. 01/14/2017 Christoph Hoebenreich ALE #5 Austria
35. 01/14/2017 James Stone ALE #5 UK (England)
36. 01/14/2017 Dan Bull ALE #5 Australia
37. 01/14/2017 Jarryd Commerford ALE #5 USA/UK (England)
38. 01/14/2017 Robbi Malandreniotis ALE #5 UK (England)/Greece
39. 01/14/2017 Michael Guggolz ALE #5 Germany
40. 01/14/2018 Nate Opp ALE #6 USA
41. 01/14/2018 Theodore Fairhurst ALE #6 Canada
42. 01/14/2018 Katie Sarah ALE #6 Australia
43. 01/14/2018 Cheryl Bart ALE #6 Australia
44. 01/14/2018 Nikki Bart ALE #6 Australia

ALE #6 was led by ALE guide Nate Opp with a strong Australian contingent.  This ascent saw Katie Sarah’s final volcanic summit.  Cheryl and Nikki Bart are a mother/daughter team who have the distinction of having already climbed the continental seven summits together,

Updated list of Volcanic Seven Summit completers

21st February 2018 by James Stone 1 Comment

Volcanic Seven Summit - The inner crater of Ojos del Salado

As I mentioned in my recent post, there have been two more completions of the Volcanic Seven Summits.  The list below reflects these.

This post is an update to my posts of 9th November 2016 and 28th June 2017.

These completions have been achieved by Katie Sarah, an Australian guide based in Adelaide who runs Sarah Mountain Journeys, and well known UK guide David Hamilton who runs High Adventure and regularly works with both Jagged Globe and ALE.  Links to their websites are in the list.

KatieSarahV7S
Katie Sarah celebrates (copyright Katie Sarah – used with permission)

 

David Hamilton on Ojos del Salado
David Hamilton on Ojos del Salado (copyright David Hamilton – used with permission)

 

In addition, further research indicates that the French guide and photographer, François Bernard, has also completed the Volcanic Seven Summits.

Climber, nationality and age at completion Date of final summit Final summit Date of first summit
Mario Trimeri (Italy) (58) 24th January 2011 Mount Sidley 23rd August 2005
Crina Popescu (Romania) (16) 24th January 2011 Mount Sidley 23rd July 2008
Vyechaslav Adrov (Russia) (50) 18th January 2013 Mount Sidley 8th January 2010
Aleks Abramov (Russia) (47) 13th September 2013 Mount Giluwe 3rd May 1991
Olga Rumyantseva (Russia) (36) 9th December 2013 Ojos del Salado 14th August 1994
Vitaliy Simonovic (Russia) (42) 19th December 2013 Ojos del Salado 26th February 2012
François Bernard (Fr) (49) 17th January 2014 Mount Sidley Not known
Sophie Cairns (UK) (32) 10th June 2014 Elbrus 28th December 2013
Paul Nicholson (Canada) (50) 5th December 2014 Ojos del Salado 7th August 2005
Liana Chabdarova (Russia) (28) 12th January 2015 Ojos del Salado 29th August 2013
Andrey Filkov (Russia) (49) 16th September 2015 Damavand 2nd May 2007
James Stone (UK) (59) 14th January 2017 Mount Sidley 23rd February 2014
Daniel Bull (Australia) (36) 27thApril 2017 Ojos del Salado 6th March 2006
Katie Sarah (Australia) (49) 14th January 2018 Mount Sidley 3rd September 2010
David Hamilton (UK) (56) 10th February 2018 Ojos del Salado April 1992

Mario Trimeri, François Bernard and David Hamilton have also completed the seven continental summits (Carstenz version).

Andrey Filkov and Katie Sarah have completed the seven continental summits (Kosciuszko version).

Aleks Abramov, Vitaliy Simonovic and Dan Bull have completed the seven continental summits (both Carstenz and Kosciuszko versions).

I would be interested to hear from anyone who is aware of any person looking to achieve this challenge.  Ted Fairhurst who only has Ojos del Salado to do is presently in Chile having to deal with poor weather in order to complete the challenge.

 

[Note that this blog was updated on 4th March 2018 in order to add François Bernard to the list.]

 

Further updated lists of completers can be found in this blog and here.

 

 

More Volcanic Seven Summits completers

18th February 2018 by James Stone Leave a Comment

Sidley

The Volcanic Seven Summits challenge is, as I predicted, becoming more popular.

Mount Sidley

January and February have seen Katie Sarah and David Hamilton (both professional guides) complete on Mount Sidley and Ojos del Salado respectively.  Both are also Seven Summiters.

I will update my lists of those who have completed the Volcanic Seven Summits and climbed Mount Sidley shortly.  The January 2018 ALE trip to Sidley was successful in getting five people to summit.

Ted Fairhurst about whom I wrote in October slipped in an ascent of Pico de Orizaba in December.  He was successful on Mount Sidley on this trip and is presently on or near Ojos del Salado.  He is, however, having weather problems.  Ojos del Salado would see him complete his quest to climb the seven.  In his latest report he stated:

“I last posted February 4 that I was climbing Volcano Ojos del Salado. It has been quite a ride since then. Ojos is a huge mountain at 6893m (22615 feet) and very tough – weather, altitude and climbing. Together with teammate Michael Halbig from Germany and our formidable Chilean guide Ismael Sepulveda we first climbed 3 mountains to acclimatize for Ojos – Siete Hermanos 4890m, Mulas Muertas 5300m and San Francisco 6018m.

We pushed our Summit Bid forward 2 days to February 14 because a big snow storm was predicted later the same day. However the mountain had already been blasted with 65 centimeters of new snow since the last few days and the climbing was slow and extremely tiring. There were 17 climbers on the mountain from different countries and only 3 of us made it to the summit crater plateau but not the true summit itself. We were about 75m below the last rock technical section. The final climb is to climb a chute and then scale a rock wall.

Reaching the crater at 1pm with very little energy left and past our turnaround time with a snowstorm coming in we had no option but to descend. It was extremely hard but the right decision. Safety first.”

Quite right.  He will make another attempt in the next week or so.  He will have used a lot of energy in this first attempt so will need to recuperate.  Best of luck to him and his team.

Welcome

Thank you for taking the trouble to read this blog.  You can find out more about me by clicking on the “About Me” tab above.

The blog started out just as a mix of mountain climbing and other travel reports interspersed with a few random musings prompted by a trip that I made to Mexico and South America in November and December 2014.  You can find details of that trip using the Tags and the Archive below.

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