Australia Archives – James Stone

Volcanic Seven Summits: Defining the Continents

5th December 2020 by James Stone Leave a Comment

I was inspired to write this blog by an essay written by the late Adam Helman (here). A comment made in my blog on Australia’s highest volcano (here) also gave me a push. Adam Helman’s essay discussed the fact that it is quite possible to define the Seven Summits differently from the traditional Bass (Kosciuszko) and Messner (Carstenz) versions. He identified that (depending on which version of “continent” was adopted) there are 12 mountains that qualify as continental summits. So with thanks to Adam Helman, this blog defines the continents in the manner he adopted and lists the Volcanic Seven Summits (or is it 11?)

Definition by tectonic plate

There are seven continental-sized continental plates, though one is largely under water. Asia and Europe are not separate continents in this respect. Therefore, as Adam Helman pointed out, if you treat the Eurasian plate as one continent Mount Elbrus would have no place on any Seven Summits list because Mount Everest is higher.

In the case of the volcanoes, however, Mount Elbrus just exceeds Mount Damavand in height. So Mount Elbrus retains its place in the list with this definition and Damavand is relegated.

Elbrus - one of the volcanic seven summits. Or does your definition of Continent exclude it? — **Elbrus**

The Pacific plate is one of the seven continental plates. Therefore the first of the lists includes Mauna Kea on the island of Hawaii on this basis.

So lists I-A and I-B look like this (with list I-B excluding the Pacific plate):

List 1-A.

Name of tectonic plate	Volcanic Seven Summits
African	Kilimanjaro
Antarctic	Mount Sidley
Australian	Mount Giluwe
Eurasian	Mount Elbrus
North American	Pico de Orizaba
Pacific	Mauna Kea
South American	Ojos del Salado

List I-B.

Name of tectonic plate	Volcanic Six Summits
African	Kilimanjaro
Antarctic	Mount Sidley
Australian	Mount Giluwe
Eurasian	Mount Elbrus
North American	Pico de Orizaba
South American	Ojos del Salado

Definition by Topographic Prominence

I have blogged about topographical prominence. I agree with Adam Helman that “Prominence is an excellent, objective measure of a mountain’s vertical stature“. Therefore the essay explains that a list on this basis would need to include mountains that had saddles at or near to sea-level and are well separated from one another.

Kilimanjaro summit - one of the Volcanic Seven Summits. It always appears, whatever your definition of continent — **Kilimanjaro summit**

This approach changes the traditional separation of Asia and Europe. So the Ural mountains are no longer at the divide. Instead the Kuma–Manych Depression is the basis of the divide. Mount Elbrus then reverts to Asia and Mount Etna becomes the European volcano.

List II-A.

Continent	Volcanic Seven Summits
Africa	Kilimanjaro
Antarctica	Mount Sidley
Asia	Mount Elbrus
Europe	Mount Etna
North America	Pico de Orizaba
Oceania	Mount Giluwe
South America	Ojos del Salado

Definition by Continental Outline

This definition recognises that Europe exists as a cultural and political concept, but cannot be justified on geographical grounds. Therefore there are only six volcanoes on this list. Mount Etna disappears and Brumlow Top makes its first appearance because Australia (and not Australasia or Oceania) is now the continent.

Brumlow Top summit - not normally regarded as one of the Volcanic Seven Summits — ***The rather uninspiring summit of Brumlow Top***

List III-A.

Continental outline	Volcanic Six Summits
Africa	Kilimanjaro
Antarctica	Mount Sidley
Asia	Mount Elbrus
Australia	Brumlow Top
North America	Pico de Orizaba
South America	Ojos del Salado

Political definition

The concepts of geology and topography do not constrain this definition. Using the essay’s approach the intriguing and extremely remote Mawson Peak on Heard Island in the southern Indian Ocean makes an appearance.

Mawson Peak has only had a couple of ascents. It would undoubtedly be the most difficult peak of all those listed here to climb. Not only is it remote, but it also suffers from terrible weather and is still occasionally active. Obtaining the relevant access permits could also be a problem.

There is an article on the first ascent here.

So there are two lists depending on whether you apply the political criterion to “Australia” or “Australasia”.

List IV-A.

Continent	Volcanic Seven Summits
Africa	Kilimanjaro
Antarctica	Mount Sidley
Asia	Mount Damavand
Australia	Mawson Peak
Europe	Mount Elbrus
North America	Pico de Orizaba
South America	Ojos del Salado

List IV-B.

Continent	Volcanic Seven Summits
Africa	Kilimanjaro
Antarctica	Mount Sidley
Asia	Mount Damavand
Australasia	Mount Giluwe
Europe	Mount Elbrus
North America	Pico de Orizaba
South America	Ojos del Salado

The Cultural Definition

Adam Helman points out that the first of the lists below follows the traditional Kosciuszko definition. He next overlays that first list with a political angle. My lists do the same. The distinction then becomes that between Australia and Australasia.

List V-1.

Cultural Continent	Volcanic Seven Summits
Africa	Kilimanjaro
Antarctica	Mount Sidley
Asia	Damavand
Australia	Brumlow Top
Europe	Mount Elbrus
North America	Pico de Orizaba
South America	Ojos del Salado

List V-B.

Cultural continent with political overlay	Volcanic Seven Summits
Africa	Kilimanjaro
Antarctica	Mount Sidley
Asia	Damavand
Australasia	Mount Giluwe
Europe	Mount Elbrus
North America	Pico de Orizaba
South America	Ojos del Salado

Conclusion

Therefore the eleven volcanoes that you have to climb in order to complete all of the lists are:

Ojos del Salado
Kilimanjaro
Pico de Orizaba
Mount Sidley
Mount Elbrus
Damavand
Mount Giluwe
Mauna Kea
Mount Etna
Mawson Peak
Brumlow Top

The first five appear in all of the lists, so there is no doubting their status. Mauna Kea, Mount Etna and Mawson Peak only make fleeting appearances. The others appear and disappear depending on your view as to what constitutes the continent.

So there you are. The Volcanic Seven Summits: define your continents.

Who will be the first to climb all of them?

For more on the Volcanic Seven Summits, please click this link.

What is the highest volcano in Australia?

11th October 2019 by James Stone 4 Comments

Introduction

The identity of the Volcanic Seven Summits is well-known (see here). Of these, there is currently a recognition of Mount Giluwe as the highest volcano in Australasia. However for those who consider Australia (rather than Australasia) as the true continent, identification of the highest volcano in Australia may be of import. It could also affect people’s views of the volcanoes that are to be regarded as members of the Volcanic Seven Summits. A sort of Carstensz versus Kosciuszko argument as to which should be recognised as the seventh volcanic summit.

Determining which volcano is the highest in Australia has proven difficult to ascertain. This note does not come to a definitive conclusion. However, on balance I think that the answer is likely to be Brumlow Top in the Barrington Tops National Park of New South Wales. In coming to this view I have ignored Mawson Peak on Heard Island which is 2745m high. Whilst Heard Island is an Australian external territory, it is clearly not a part of the landmass of Australia itself.

Mount Bogong

Readers will note that there is no mention of Mount Bogong. The Wikipedia page dealing with Australian volcanoes suggests that Mount Bogong is the highest volcano. However, there is at the time of writing this blog a comment in the Wikipedia entry suggesting that Mount Bogong’s entry is in error. “Mount Bogong is composed of metamorphic sedimentary rocks” it says. Indeed the coordinates given in Wikipedia for the location of the volcano lie 80km to the south of Mount Bogong. This is the location of the Bogong lava field. Mount Bogong does have volcanic rocks. However these have been uplifted in much the same way as those on Aconcagua (which was for a time also once thought to be an extinct volcano). So the evidence suggests that we can probably discount Mount Bogong.

What is a volcano?

This brings me to the question of what is a volcano? For this purpose I have discounted locations where volcanic activity has led merely to extrusions of lava at the Earth’s surface. I have also taken the view that to count as a continental (or country) high point for this purpose, there ought (if possible) to be a suitable prominence from its nearest highest neighbour.

In terms of the first condition (mere extrusions of lava) this makes no practical difference here. There are no such locations in Australia where this would determine which point is the highest volcano.

As for the second condition (prominence), I consider that 600m would be the right measure. Of course one can argue over the use of this number. It is only an opinion after all. But if one is talking about a volcanic mountain, then a suitable degree of prominence is (in my view) apt. In fact, in this case, the point only matters if one thinks that a prominence of less than 100m could define a volcanic mountain.

An equally interesting question is whether something that once was a volcano could subsequently cease to be one. This is not an issue with any of the currently recognised Volcanic Seven Summits. But, Australia is an ancient landmass. What happens where a mountain that once would have been categorised as a volcano is so eroded over time that it is reduced back to roughly its original landform, but now with a vent running up through it? This is the situation with one of the candidates listed below.

The table below identifies suitable candidates. Australia is not, I suspect, normally identified as a location of volcanic activity – at least by the lay person. But, as an ancient landmass, it has experienced significant amounts of volcanic activity over the millennia, particularly down the east coast. Being an ancient landmass, time has considerably eroded the volcanic formations. The volcanic activity has been in the form of shield volcanoes (rather than the more noticeable and readily identifiable stratovolcanoes) and lava fields (where lava exudes through faults in the Earth’s surface).

The highest volcano in Australia

Although my conclusion is that Brumlow Top should be considered the highest volcano, this blog is not written by an expert in volcanology (or geology). Quite the opposite. I have read a few articles on the internet by apparent experts. Many refer to scientific papers that are available only on payment which might shed more light on the matter. I have not sought to access those papers. So the conclusions in this note are up for debate.

Brumlow Tops summit - Australia's highest volcano? — ***The rather uninspiring summit of Brumlow Top***

If I am right, a more worthy winner would have been Mount Kaputar. It stands supremely isolated and does not suffer from trees enveloping its summit. So there are stunning views from the top. This mountain lies within the remains of a massive shield volcano where one can observe the impact of ancient forces. On the other hand, poor old Brumlow Top hides in the lush Gondwana rainforest, a swelling on a high plateau. There are no views. It is a fight through the bush even to reach the summit and you would not know it was even there if you weren’t looking for it.

Mount Kaputar - Australia's second highest volcano? — ***Expansive views from Mount Kaputar***

The Contenders

The contenders are:

Brumlow Top – the highest and with more than enough prominence. It was undoubtedly a part of the Barrington Tops shield volcano. But there may be some doubt as to whether it was a centre of volcanic activity. On the other hand it is located more centrally to the Barrington Tops area than Mount Barrington which is at the fringes of that area (see below). It would seem odd if the only eruptive activity occurred at that fringe.
Round Mountain – lower than Brumlow Top (just) but higher than Mount Barrington. Almost certainly the location of a volcanic plug. However the volcano (if it was one) has mostly eroded away. The mountain now essentially consists of granite with the remnant of a volcanic vent within. As a result it does not now seem to be properly to be called a volcano. Otherwise it has sufficient prominence.
Mount Barrington – almost as high as Brumlow Top and probably a centre of volcanic activity. However even the scientific papers I have seen suggest that this activity may have been “nearby”. But Mount Barrington does not have much prominence. It is a bump on the edge of the Barrington Tops plateau. There are two nearby tops higher than it, both of which have greater prominence (in Brumlow Top’s case considerably so).
Mount Kaputar – undoubtedly a volcano with sufficient prominence. A lovely mountain in fact with great views. It would only get to number one spot if the three above were all discounted.

Round Mountain - Australia's highest volcano? — **Round Mountain is covered by a radar station**

The table below provides height and prominence details taken from a variety of sources, especially Peakbagger.com, Wikipedia and Google Earth. There are often material differences between them. Indeed Wikipedia itself is often inconsistent between pages for the peaks themselves on the one hand and the page with the listing of Australian mountains on the other. So I have used the details that seem to be the most consistent. I have not looked at sites such as Summitpost or Australian National Park websites because in the end this did not seem to matter for the assessment.

So I repeat. I am not a geologist or volcanologist. Accordingly, my interpretation of the information that I have found may well be incorrect. I am happy to be challenged on the content and conclusions of this note as to Australia’s highest volcano.

Any volcanologists out there?

***The Mount Kaputar massif in the early morning***

The Table

Name of volcano	Contender peaks	Height and prominence	Ranking of contender
Tweed	The Tweed volcano is one of the largest volcanoes in the world. It was originally around 100km in diameter. Its lava flows all the way east to the Pacific Ocean. There remains a 30km diameter caldera wall within the original extent of the volcano. At the centre of the caldera is Mount Warning which with its striking shape is a well-known landmark and, despite its relatively lowly height, can be seen out to sea even though it is about 35km from the Pacific coast.
	Mount Warning	H: 1159m/3802ft P: 973m/3192ft	Not ranked although it has more than enough prominence. There are many peaks forming parts of eroded volcanoes that are higher than Mount Warning.
The Tweed volcano also incorporates:	Mount Barney (McPherson Range)	H: 1359m/4459ft P: 766m/2513ft	Australia’s fifth highest volcano.
	Mount Superbus (Main Range)	H: 1372m/4501ft P: 815m/2674ft	Australia’s fourth highest volcano.
	Bar Mountain (Tweed Range)	H: 1130m/3710ft P: Not available (but less than 600m)	No ranking for these purposes.
Therefore the highest points in the McPherson and Main Ranges exceed that of the “parent” Mount Warning. Mount Warning is a volcanic plug. The other three mountains are probably volcanic dykes.

Ebor	The remains of another shield volcano. Round Mountain is its highest point, but erosion has removed much of the original shield, especially in the area of Round Mountain itself. See here and note the line depicting the current landform. Round Mountain has a remnant of a basaltic plug but most of its slopes comprise the original underlying granite. So it is probably not reasonable to classify it as a volcano.
	Round Mountain	H: 1584m/5200ft P: 744m/2441ft	Although it has sufficient prominence, no ranking for the reason given in the commentary.
	Point Lookout	H: 1564m/5131ft P: 224m/735ft	Point Lookout is made up of volcanic rock but is not the site of volcanic activity. Therefore it is not ranked. It also does not have sufficient prominence. If this point were to be ranked then so would any lava field that happened to erode at a slower pace than its source so that it was now at a higher elevation than the source.

Nandewar	The remains of a shield volcano. The highest remaining point is Mount Kaputar which forms a part of the rim of the original volcano. Undoubtedly to be classified as a volcano.
	Mount Kaputar	H: 1509m/4951ft P: 859m/2818ft	Signs at the mountain give a height of 1510m or 4954ft. However Mount Kaputar is lower than Brumlow Top and, if counted, Mount Barrington. So Mount Kaputar is Australia’s second highest volcano.

Barrington	The Barrington volcano is an eroded shield volcano. The highest point is at Brumlow Top. This volcano is heavily eroded and so it is unclear where all of the volcanic activity has been. Mount Barrington has been shown to be at or near an eruption of the volcano and shed its lava over most of the Barrington Tops area.
	Brumlow Top	H: 1586m/5203ft P: 1105m/3625ft	Presently ranked by me as Australia’s highest volcano though there may be some doubt as to whether it was the centre of any volcanic activity. But see here where the discussion on Brumlow Top refers to the highest point being at 1576m. This is the height for Mount Polblue (listed on Peakbagger as Pollblue (sic) trig point). Mount Polblue was once thought to be the highest point in Barrington Tops until resurvey placed Brumlow Top as higher. Note that my GPS (an Etrex 30) put the height of Brumlow Top at 1595m at the “summit” cairn and 1597m at the point shown on the Peakbagger app as being the summit. [See also my Peakbagger trip report]
	Mount Barrington	H: 1555m/5102ft P: 81m/266ft	With a prominence of less than 100m (assuming Google Earth to be correct) it does not “deserve” to rank as a continental high point. However, it should probably properly be classed as a volcano.

Canobolas	Another eroded shield volcano.
	Mount Canobolas	H: 1395m/4577ft P: 674m/2211ft	Australia’s third highest volcano.

The Glass House Mountains, Queensland

15th September 2019 by James Stone Leave a Comment

The Glass House Mountains are a diminutive set of ancient intrusive volcanic plugs situated in the hinterland of the Sunshine Coast, Queensland around an hour’s drive north of Brisbane. They were named by Lieutenant James Cook during his epic voyage along Australia’s east coast.

The Glass House Mountains are remnants of volcanic activity that occurred approximately 25–27 million years ago. Molten rock filled small vents or intruded as bodies beneath the surface and solidified into hard rocks—trachyte and rhyolite.

The area was also a special meeting place where many Aboriginal people gathered for ceremonies and trading. This place is considered spiritually significant with many ceremonial sites still present and protected today.

The Mountains comprise Mount Beerwah (the highest), Mount Tibrogargan, Coonowrin, the Coochin Twins, Mount Beerburrum, Mount Ngungun, Mount Tibberroowuccum and Mount Tunbubudla.

Mount Ngungun

Last year when visiting friends (and after we had been to the heights of the Snowy Mountains) we climbed Mount Ngungun at a lofty 253m. Climbs of most of the Glass House mountains are often just half day affairs. Mount Ngungun is no different. The climb at that time followed a rough and partly eroded track that led to a short and entertaining rocky crest. The path has just re-opened following repairs and erosion control. The view from the top shows Coonowrin and, behind it, Mount Beerwah.

There is also a good panorama of the other tops – here with Mount Tibrogargan to the left.

Mount Tibrogargan and the Glass House Mountains

We returned to the area this August and took the opportunity to climb three of the others.

The Coochin Twins

First up were the Coochin Twins (sounding a bit like a 1980s boy band perhaps). These lie to the north of most of the remainder of the group just to the south west of Beerwah. The start point is a little tricky to find with the car park looking as though it is up a private drive.

Once there the start to the climb is obvious by a gate with a sign. 100m further on the right (but this time unsigned) a rough path leads off uphill. The route then is straightforward. Again there are some nice views from the top at 235m to others of the Glass House mountains.

Mount Ngungun is in the foreground now with Mount Tibrogargan the dominant peak to the left.

The trail continues to the east top with some easy scrambling and further views.

Here are Coonowrin and Mount Beerwah with the main top of Coochin on the right.

From there descend north along a broad ridge still along a trail until a fire road is reached. Turn left and you’ll soon be back at the car park. The whole round took slightly less than two hours with stops on each of the summits.

From our friends’ house I took this shot of Coonowrin together with the obligatory Kookaburra.

Mount Beerburrum

The next day after doing touristy stuff in the area we made a late afternoon ascent of Mount Beerburrum at 278m. This top is located just to the north west of the township of the same name.

From the car park to the north of the “mountain”. The start is signed. A tarmac path leads steeply up to the summit where there is a viewing tower (for the benefit of fire watchers rather than bushwalkers).

But access to this is permitted and enables wide ranging views to be had from Brisbane in the south, the coast to the east, other Glass House mountains and other ranges to the north and west. Great for relatively little effort. As with most of the Glass House mountains this one has a lot of prominence relative to its height.

View from Mount Beerburrum — From left to right – Beerwah, Coonowrin, Tibberroowuccum and Tibrogargan.

We returned the same way. It only takes 30 to 40 minutes to reach the summit from the car park.

Mount Beerwah

The next day we turned to my main objective, the tricky Mount Beerwah (556m). This video that gives a good feel for this climb and the amount of scrambling involved.

There is a public car park at the end of Mount Beerwah Road which becomes a gravel road for the final kilometre. A pleasant, if short, walk takes you through some woodland and eventually to the base of the climb. It matters not whether you take the path or the continuation of the road out of the car park. They both end up in the same point where there are some information boards.

The climb will begin with a steep ascent which will almost certainly involve hands. The direct route involves some bold moves. There are alternatives to the left however. Around 8 people turned around at this point and decided that the initial section was too difficult for them.

Once up the initial 30 metres or so of ascent, things become a little easier but no less interesting as the volcanic slabs continue at a slightly easier angle. Some respite (if needed) can be had by aiming for any groups of trees where “paths” run intermittently through them. The route should probably not be attempted when there has been rain and the route is wet.

At the top of the slabs, it is necessary to find the continuation path that climbs up amongst the trees. Here I came face to face with a rather large iguana that took some persuading to move out of the way! In another 5 to 10 minutes, the continuation path disgorges you on to a terrace where some respite from both the steepness and the sun can be found.

Turn right. The interest continues as you continue with the evidence of volcanic activity around and above you.

You are now walking beneath the Organ Pipes which are seen to good effect both from the base and from a viewpoint (unmarked) you pass further up. The Organ Pipes are columns of trachyte (in part overhanging) formed as the molten rock cooled within what is now the remnant of a volcanic plug.

The Organ Pipes, Mount Beerwah — The Organ Pipes

At the end of the terrace there is a short awkward scramble and the path then continues in an upward direction. The route is clear as it weaves between the vegetation and occasional short sections of scrambling can be found.

The top soon comes and the reward is a panorama of the other Glass House Mountains and views to the coast. Mount Coonowrin pops up below with Mount Ngungun behind it. Mount Tibrogargan is off to the right.

Coonowrin and Mount Tibrogargan, Glass House Mountains

Mount Tibrogargan and Glass House Mountains panorama

The summit was somewhat spoiled by zillions of flying ants and it was difficult to take photos without them flying in front of or landing on the lens!

The way down is to reverse the route of ascent. This went fairly quickly. On the steeper sections it was easier to see foot and hand holds from above than it had been from below. At the final section I found an easy route that angled downwards to the right on small ledges. That avoided most of the steepness.

This all took 2 hours 50 minutes return from the car park. It was a very enjoyable climb and quieter than the others because of the initial difficulties. I had the summit to myself (with the ants) and only passed a group of three on my descent. I have to admit that I was out of practice with my scrambling. I had stiff upper arm and pectoral muscles for a couple of days after the climb!

So if you are ever in the area, these little mountains are recommended for short excursions. And the weather is great most of the time as well!

Mount Bogong

23rd April 2018 by James Stone Leave a Comment

Having climbed the five highest peaks in Australia, our next objective was Mount Bogong. We left Kosciuszko National Park and returned to Wangaratta a few hours’ drive to the south west. Here we had to say goodbye to Dan who had to go back to work. The temperature was in the low 40Cs. We were positively melting. We found a place to eat before dropping Dan off at the rail station and stayed the night at a local B&B.

The next day we had a pleasant drive of an hour and half or so back towards the mountains to the south-east. We wound our way along the, perhaps inappropriately named, Snow Road and on to The Great Alpine Road to Porepunkah and Bright, two tidy towns set in the Ovens valley – an appropriate name considering the heat. Soon after Bright we turned left onto the Tawonga Gap Road which lifted us up and over a pass along an occasionally steep road of switchbacks.

At the top of the pass there was a car park and viewpoint where we stopped for an hour to obtain some relief from the heat. The view across the Kiewa valley ahead was to the next objective, Mount Bogong. Mount Bogong is the highest peak in the State of Victoria at 1986m (6156ft) in height. It has been thought of as the remains of an ancient volcano but this is probably incorrect – see my blog here.

Bogong in the local Aboriginal language means “Big Fella”. It is certainly one of the most prominent mountains in Australia. It is also a significant location for the local indigenous people, being a location for collecting Bogong moths and as a meeting place for tribes far and wide. Bogong moths were collected and eaten as a protein rich food.

Although of relatively modest height, Mount Bogong can be treacherous in bad weather as ways off the massive plateau that forms its summit are not always obvious.

After leaving the viewpoint we drove down into the valley. Julie had organised an AirBnB in Tawonga South, a small settlement near Mount Beauty. Before going there though I decided to recce the start point for the climb which, weather permitting, I was hoping to do the following day. So, instead of turning right toward Mount Beauty, we turned left and then after a couple of kilometres turned right along Mountain Creek Road to the picnic area and car park at the end of the tarmac road.

We duly then found our accommodation and I prepared for the following day. The forecast was alright. A weather front was moving in bringing with it some high cloud and strengthening winds during the afternoon. I was always intending an early start and this forecast confirmed the decision.

So I was off the following morning at 5.30am. There was one other vehicle in the car park but I was to see no-one else that day. There was also someone camping just behind the car park with a car adjacent to the tent.

A 4WD track exits the back of the car park with signs pointing the way. Just over 2km and five stream crossings later I reached the bottom of the Staircase Spur. There is little risk of being cut off should it rain because each of the stream crossings has a pedestrian bridge .

It is not possible to miss the start of the trail up the Spur. A sign shows the way.

The sign at the start indicates that it is 6km to the summit of Mount Bogong. Wikipedia describes this Spur as “a difficult ascent due to its steep slopes”. I did not find the path as steep as suggested. Topographically, the Spur rises in a series of series of steeper sections interspersed with occasional more level ones – hence the name of the Spur. But the path is fairly relentless as it winds its way up amongst the snow gums.

Only in a few places did the trees open up so as to give views.

Half way up the Spur is the Michell Hut with adjacent drop toilets. The hut is supposed to be used in emergencies only. I went in to have a drink and something to eat. Although the promised cloud cover had arrived, it was still warm. The trees sheltered any breeze that there might have been. In the hut was a bench, a lot of cut wood with a wood burner, a table and sleeping platforms.

The path is obvious all the way to the top and follows large wooden posts once above the tree-line. Above the tree-line it also became distinctly cooler in the strong breeze. The landscape opened up abruptly. No scattered trees. One moment trees, the next open heath covered slopes.

As if to emphasise how treacherous this environment can be, I passed a memorial to three people who died here in 1943. Of course, on this day, the conditions were far more benign for me.

The Spur continued in a pleasingly narrow way until the plateau was reached.

The summit cairn was just visible on the skyline to the right.

I was soon up to the cairn. The views were expansive, if a little gloomy. They included Mount Buffalo and its Horn that I would do the next day about 60km to the west. Here is a short video I took at the top.

The wind gusted freshly across the broad exposed plateau. After I had scaled the large cairn, I then used it as a shelter whilst I took in some more food and drink.

It had taken me about 3 hours from the foot of the Eskdale Spur and it would take me about 2¼ hours to make the return trip, including stops at the hut half way and at the top.

I returned the same way. As I was speeding down the path back in the trees, something caught my eye just ahead of me. I stopped a couple of metres short of it. There, on the path, a red bellied black snake also stopped. I looked at it and it looked at me. It had no doubt felt the vibrations I was making as I pounded down the path. Eventually, it decided I was not going to attack it and it slithered off to my right.

Just 15 minutes later I then had a very similar experience. This time the snake was much larger but it was already making its way into the undergrowth to my left. Of course, on neither occasion was I quick or brave enough to find my camera to take pictures of either of them!

The rest of the descent passed without incident and I was back in Tawonga South by 1.30pm.