This is the second of my blogs about my trips to the north of Scotland this year. The previous one was about Cul Mor. This one is about Ben More Coigach (Gaelic – Beinn Mhor na Coigich).
In Gaelic, Beinn (or Ben) Mhor (or Mor/More) just means ‘big hill’ or ‘mountain‘. Coigach is a sparsely populated peninsular to the north of Ullapool. This mountain is its highest point – hence the name. Coigach is home to a number of Scotland’s iconic peaks, such as Stac Pollaidh (colloquially known as Stac Polly) and Ben More Coigach, with Cul Mor and Cul Beag on its fringes.
Ben More Coigach can be approached from the east, but I suspect that the most popular starting point is from the west near to Culnacraig (which is where I started). However, this requires a long drive around the north side of the peninsular and then a backtrack through Achiltibuie. But at least that way you get a good feeling for the area and some great views of Stac Polly.
Ben More Coigach presents an imposing 4-kilometre-long wall when seen driving north from Ullapool along the A835. It has intrigued me for a long time, ever since I started coming this way in the mid-1980s. And it is one of the P600s of the British Isles – see here for a list.
There is a small parking area just before the road drops to its dead end at Culnacraig. An occupied small but battered Ford truck converted into a camper van was there when I arrived, but I saw little evidence of them. There were also a couple of cars.
I had not quite determined the full extent of the route I would take this day other than I wanted to experience the narrow ridge of Speicein nan Garbh-choireachan and to climb a second Marilyn that was close by – Sgurr an Fhidhleir. A GPS track of my eventual route is here.
It is possible to ascend and descend Ben Mor Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir from the same starting point as I used by following a route north of and parallel with the Allt nan Coisiche. This will bring you to the col between these two tops from which straightforward ascents can be made. However, you miss the ridge if you follow this route.
So, I set off down the road towards Culnacraig. At the point where the road takes a sharp right I carried on and slipped by a house to the left of a deer fence, so keeping out of its curtilage. There was an informal path here. At its highest point I veered left aiming for the Allt nan Coisiche above where it disappears into a box canyon.
I easily crossed this watercourse. On the other side of it a path appears and took me, steeply at times, up heathery ground. I could see a couple of other figures high above. Eventually, the gradient eased. At this point, I crossed trackless heathery ground aiming for the foot of the ridge of Speicein nan Garbh-choireachan. The other couple were taking a slightly less direct route to me.
At the foot of the ridge, it was just a case of picking my way up. The nose of the ridge was often terraced with smatterings of paths winding their way upwards. Nearer the top, there was scrambling to be had. But generally, any difficulties were avoidable. I had seen the other couple start ascending the side of the ridge, but I had passed them as they sat and rested. I did not see them again.
Eventually I reached the level crest of the airy, sandstone ridge. This was a delight with blue sea to the right and behind and my two Marilyn objectives ahead and to the left. The minor top of Speicein nan Garbh-choireachan has great views. So, I heartily recommend this approach. I could see the length of Loch Broom to Beinn Dearg and the Fannichs, the monolithic hills to the north along the coast and the Summer Isles, Skye and Lewis out to sea.
From this top I continued a short airy way before dropping steeply to my left to reach the col. At the col the slopes broadened out as I swung north up to the plateau-like summit of Ben More Coigach where there is a shelter.
It was a day to linger. So, I did! I sat at the cairn in the sunshine, had some food and drink, and took in the views. I saw a pair of figures making their way along the ridge that I had just come along. An eagle was circling way to the south – too far away to determine the variety.
I stayed on this summit for around 50 minutes, time enough for the two figures to arrive and depart.
They were going on to Sgurr an Fhidhleir. So, I would meet them there as well.
Leaving Ben More Coigach for my next objective, it is necessary to descend south-east and then east so as to avoid precipitous slopes on the direct line. There is then a descent of around 190 metres to the col followed by a climb of 160 metres with some traces of paths up to Sgurr an Fhidhleir.
Whilst the views of Loch Broom have gone, the views north are at least as good from here. There is also a feeling of space with this summit perched at the top of some very steep ground. The eyes are drawn north to Suilven, Stac Polly and Beinn nan Eoin, and out to see. Ben More Coigach looks a little dowdy from this angle.
I now had a decision to make. A return down the Allt nan Coisiche, or an ascent of the lower Beinn nan Caorach?
Well, it was too good a day not to stay as high as possible for as long as possible. Beinn nan Caorach has two similarly high tops about one kilometre apart from each other and lies in a south-west to north easterly direction with a broad ridge. The south-west top is supposedly one metre higher than the north-east one.
It was now pathless terrain from Sgurr an Fhidhleir, first southwest and then north-west to a col. Then a steep 100 metre ascent (there is a path, unmarked on the map that goes to the south-west top). There were a couple of cairns on the broad north-eastern end of the ridge, so visited them both. The views were like those from Sgurr an Fhidhleir with Stac Polly hogging the limelight.
I then ambled along the ridge to the south-west top and continued in a south westerly direction down the ridge, avoiding some steep ground to my right. As I descended, I noted that the subsidiary top of Cairn Conmheall (541m) was not that far away. I wondered if it was worth bagging that top as well.
So, I did. There was only 60 metres of additional ascent, and a nice perch overlooking the sea and the route that I had been following. It was spoilt only by the midges that had decided to make an appearance. So, I did not stay long.
The way down from this top was decidedly unpleasant. Perhaps this was because I was becoming tired. There was a lot of steep, broken ground and vegetation that hid rocks and holes. Lower down I did up a path of sorts which eased the way.
Despite carrying, and consuming, two litres of water, I was dehydrated by the end. Fortunately, I had more water in the car and so spent 10 minutes recovering before the 1 hour drive back to Ullapool where I was staying. The camper had gone.
A fantastic round. Keep it for a good day so you can see and appreciate the views.
Other blogs about my climbs in the North of Scotland are for:
Leave a Reply